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Wednesday, September 30, 2009

SWAP jacket

Yay!  I finished my jacket for the SWAP collection just in time to enter it in the jacket contest at Pattern Review.

My little man just had to try it on after all my checking it out in the mirror.

Here it is!  

The pattern is Vogue 8333, one of the Claire Shaeffer couture patterns.  While I did follow along the couture instructions, I didn't use all of the techniques.  My biggest departure was using fusible interfacing.  This was partly because I knew I wouldn't finish the jacket in time for the contests, but really, I doubt I would have finished it at all, ever.  I just don't have the patience at this point to make a tailored, couture jacket.  Hopefully I will soon, but not right now.
I added a back vent.
and I added welt pockets.  With the pattern's inseam pleated pockets, it was looking a bit too horseback-riding jacket for me.  I wanted a versatile jacket to keep a long time.  I also made pocket flaps, but I couldn't find one when I was racing to finish this yesterday, so they will have to wait for a later date.

It took me a while to decide on buttons.  I didn't want boring old matching navy ones, but gold seemed like a bit much.  I finally decided on these silver ones.  I think it's a nice compromise.  I'm not totally thrilled with my machine button holes, but I'm happy enough with them.
Here's a peek at a pocket.

Functional buttoning sleeve
Back vent
Here is my review:

Pattern Description: Semi-fitted, lined, partially interfaced, below waist jacket has princess seams, slightly extended shoulders, shoulder pads, in-seam pockets with pleats, side panels (no side seams), shaped hem, and long two-piece sleeves with buttoned vents. A: underlined and couture construction techniques.

Pattern Sizing: 6-22. I made a 10.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, except for the pockets I changed.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Ok. I followed along the couture directions, but I have to admit I didn't use all of them. The biggest change was I used fusible interfacings. I would love to do a couture jacket someday, but I just don't have the patience yet. The directions seemed easy to follow. Nothing really crazy difficult; just time consuming.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the fitted shape of this pattern. It really nips in at the waist, which is flattering. Boxy jackets just make me look, well, like a box.

Fabric Used: wool with 15% cashmere. It's navy and marled a bit. It almost looks like a herringbone a bit. The fabric is a little bit felted, so it hardy frayed at all, which was super helpful. It also responded really well to steam and pressing.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I lengthened the sleeves 2 inches for my monkey arms. I also got a little too much of an equestrian vibe early on, so I added some welt pockets from Vogue 8087 (another Claire Shaeffer jacket pattern, now out of print) to make it appear a little more blazer-like. I just sewed shut where the pleated in seam pockets are supposed to go. I have the flaps, too... somewhere. I went to sew them on this morning and can only find one. I decided I like the look as is. Maybe I'll sew the flaps on if I find the other one, or I can always make a new one. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I might sew this again with the intended pocket style if I find a fabric I don't think will look too riding-jacket-like. Maybe in a fun colored light flannel coating. I do recommend this. The directions are great, and the style is flattering.

Conclusion: A very nice jacket pattern, even if you're not ready to commit to the couture methods.

1 comment:

Uta said...

Gorgeous! The perfect fall wardrobe staple.