Marfy 1776, complete!

Hubs, Kiddos, and I leave bright and early in the morning for a South American adventure (primarily to go to my brother-in-law's wedding).  So... here is the formal wedding guest dress.

I am quite proud, having made a formal gown and two cocktail dresses in the past month. 

 The top is Marfy 1776, unaltered.  I explained a bit about it in this post, and I showed what a Marfy pattern looks like here.  The lace-looking fabric is a novelty, open-weave silk.  The solid portions of the top are a drapey crepe (can't remember if it is silk or poly) that I got at Marisu Miranda Moda/Queen's Fabrics in Tampa.  The lining is ambiance. 

 The skirt and top are separate pieces.  I originally tried to connect them and keep the two-piece look, but I couldn't get the skirt un-poofy enough.  This skirt has an A-line shape that I think is more sophisticated than my first, gathered attempt.  The skirt is a bit long in these photos.  I have since gotten some higher heels to wear.

 Another challenge I am glad I attempted.  I'm very happy with how it came out, and my husband seems thrilled.  I'm not convinced the halter-style top is a friend to my broad shoulders, but he likes it, and that makes me happy.  :-)

 I couldn't find a nice, red separating zipper in the right length for the top (if such a thing even exists), but luckily (in this instance, anyway), my bust is a bit smaller than my hips, so I used a regualar invisible zipper and just sewed the bottom two inches closed.  I slip it over my head and zip it up.  I now consider myself quite skilled at making boned foundations.  :-)

Marfy 2608

Well, I have finally taken the photos of Marfy 2608.

Where to begin?  I had planned to make Marfy 1776, my gown, first, but while at my favorite local fabric store, I found the skirt fabric (a nice, thick poly stretch satin) and knew I needed to use it for something!  I decided it would make a great skirt for this pattern and got the cooridnating navy for the bodice. 

I showed you a Marfy pattern here.  I basically just jumped in, starting with the easier parts.  I put the darts in the skirt and sewed the skirt together.  Ok, don't need directions for that... so far, so good.  The top was trickier.  I sewed the darts first and then just kind of thought through each step carefully.  I was afraid this would require tons of hand-sewing, but I guess I did the order of operations pretty well, because there was very little of it.

My one regret - should have used a navy zipper.  I was more concerned about a dark zipper showing on the light skirt, but I didn't think about the white zipper pull hanging down on the navy.  I left the scarf thingy free for now.  I'm on the lookout for a fabulous buckle or brooch to fasten it up like in the pattern drawing.

Note to self:  pull that skirt down!

Inside of the bodice.  The shininess on the upper left is a piece of fashion tape I use to keep that section affixed to my chest.  Cheating?  Perhaps.  At least it's not hot glue, a la Project Runway.

I was careful to match the fabric design at the center back seam.  It's distorted up higher, where the seam curves in for the sway of the back, but the bottom looks nice.  I used interfacing at the all the bodice opening edges to keep everything laying as flat against my skin as possible.

Inside detail. I lined the bodice but not the skirt, since that was quite heavy already.  I used bias tape to finish off the inside zipper nicely.

I'm very proud of this dress, both for me figuring out how to construct the interesting design with no directions, and also just because I think it's a pretty awesome dress!  I can't wait to wear it out to a nice dinner. 

Marfy 1776 complete!

Here's a first look at Marfy 1776, complete! 

Obviously, I have to finish the skirt to get the whole look. :-)  I originally tried a gathered skirt attatched under the top to make it all one piece, but I didn't like how it poofed out right under the top.  Way too "princess" for this almost-30-year-old.  I've settled on an A-line separate skirt, which just needs a lining and zipper to be complete.

Wow, was this a challenge!  I don't think I've ever resewn so many seams in my life, but I wanted this to be as close to perfect as possible.  I'll save the nitty gritty details until I have the whole look together.  This has been hanging up for a few days and could use another pressing.  I also plan to use that special garment tape to tape the cups to my skin.  I don't want my strapless bra to peek out, and you can probably tell this is quite plungeing.

The structure I used worked really well: fashion fabric underlined with cotton flannel to camoflague the boning.  The boning is underneath, on the interfaced lining.  This method of construction worked so well that I'm using the same on my blue lace dress (also almost complete).

Any ideas on a hairstyle?  I think I need an updo, but not sure what I'll do now that my hair is pretty short. 

Marfy 1776 - part 1

I've started sewing Marfy 1776.

First, I want to show you how I cut it out, since the pattern pieces have no seam allowances.  I showed you the pattern here.
I SHOULD trace the pieces onto large paper, add seam allowances, make a muslin, adjust the muslin, cut the muslin apart, and use the pieces to cut out my dress.

What I did:

 Oh yeah.  I'm a rebel, man.  I mentioned before that I've made just a few Marfys, but they've all fit pretty perfectly with no adjustment.  I also have a deadline, so I just went for it.  I'm using one-inch seam allowances in case I need to make some fitting adjustments.  I didn't even trace the pattern pieces, just laid them on the fabric, held them down with cans (sun-dried tomatoes and cream of mushroom soup optional) and used a ruler to guide my cutting.

I've assembled the lining with a lightweight woven fusible, and I just added the boning (one of my least favorite tasks for some reason).

Here is the side that will be against my body:

And here is the boning:

I made the lining first to check fit, which seems good.  Now, I need to cut out the flannel underlining (after cutting out the fashion fabric, lining, and interfacing, I stopped cutting) and assemble the outer layer.  More to come on this adventure...

Have you seen a Marfy pattern?

About a week ago, the two Marfy patterns that I ordered arrived, and I couldn't help myself.  Even though I have chosen 1776

for my formal dress, I whipped up 2608
in about 4 days.  I didn't even make a muslin, which I probably should have.  I've had success with Marfy pattern drafting in the past, though, so I went for it, and it turned out great with only minor adjustments along the way.  More to come about that dress after I get photos on me today, but for now, here are quick hanger shots.

The real purpose of this post is to show you what a Marfy pattern looks like.  You may have read the description on the website, which includes in large type

"Alert! These patterns are for experienced sewers only. Expert level sewing skills are recommended for those interested in sewing with Marfy sewing patterns.
HOW DO THEY DIFFER?
MARFY PATTERNS:
• Do not have cutting layouts
• Do not have seam allowances
• Do not have hem allowances
• Do not have instructions for assembly"

I have to say that I think my sewing skills have progressed into "Advanced" territory, but I wouldn't consider myself an expert.  There are still so many things I don't know how to do, or have read about but haven't tried, but I am telling you, Marfy patterns aren't that hard!  Each online pattern description gives you a rough idea of yardage requirements and suitable fabrics, and the only other obstacle is no instructions.  You just need to have enough experience sewing to know the general order of construction.  Past that, you can use books and other patterns to help you, if needed.

Ok, on to the photos.  This is the other pattern I ordered, 1776.  Only the bodice is included in this pattern.  You would need to use a separate skirt pattern.  The pattern arrives folded in a nice little rectagle, bottom left.  That's all you get.  :-)  I store each of my Marfys in a Ziploc bag with a printout of the drawing from the website, so I can remember what they look like.

I had already opened this pattern before taking these photos, so I refolded the pieces.  It gives you a general idea of what you'd see.  If you have any individual pattern pieces large enough, a big one will be used as the "envelope."  For instance, in my Marfy 2608, shown above, the "envelope" was one of the skirt pieces.  For this bodice, no pieces are large enough,  so the "envelope" is just a rectangle of paper.

Here are all of the pattern pieces unfolded.

I've zoomed in on one piece to show you all of the markings.  They don't tell you what this piece is.  All they give you is some letters to match up between pieces and a few cryptic instructions in four languages.  The bottom and top instructions say (in English, on the third line) "fold inside" with a line.

 To help myself visually see where everything goes, I fold along the lines per the instructions.  Once seam allowances are added and sewn together, you can see this will actually be a tube.

 I always lay out my Marfys to see what's going on.  This helps me know how to cut everything out and what kind of seam allowances to add.  By the way, the instruction "whole half-front on the grain" means "cut on the fold."  "Whole" in this instruction is a verb.  You are supposed to "make whole" this pattern piece which is "half of a front."  Clear as mud?

Here are all of the pattern pieces laid out, letters matched.  The piece I folded above is laid on top of everything so you can see all of the pieces...

 ... but it actually goes here, forming the lovely little bust shelf.  Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's not really the right term.

The point of this is to show you that Marfy patterns aren't that different from what you're used to.  They just don't have instructions and you have to add your own seam allowances.  I love Marfys for their interesting patterns, and the challenge they can present.  Go on - check them out.  They are more expensive than $4 Vogues at JoAnn (which I love as much as the next seamstress!) but I think it's worth it for some variety. 

Just in case you're wondering, this isn't any kind of ad to get you to try Marfy.  I don't get anything for you checking them out.  Marfy has no clue who I am.  :-)

Marfy Gown Patterns

So, you can imagine my excitement on finding out that a wedding I'm going to in October requires Formal attire!  I plan to use the navy lace in this post for a knee-length dress (which I'm working on muslining) but I'm told full-length is the way to go for this wedding, so back to the drawing board for that.  With Hubs' help, I narrowed down the pattern possibilities to two Marfys, both of which are on their way to my hot little hands.

2608 - I would need to do a floor-length skirt obviously, but I love the top of this one.  If I don't go with this pattern, I'll definitely be making another much-needed (ha, yeah right!) cocktail dress from it.

1776 - Again, I'll need a different skirt (this is actually flowy pants - yikes!) but I'm digging this top.  The only part I'm not sure about is the halter strap.  It's not the most flattering for my broad shoulders, but I could always change that to regular straps in the muslin stage.

So please, please put your pick in the comments.  Sophisticated and sleek or fun and pretty?  Or do you hate them both?  Feel free to pipe up with that as well.  :-)  Thanks!

Either way, I feel a downtown Tampa fabric shopping excursion in my near future.